Florence: Then and Now



Florence, the heart of Tuscany, is a very enjoyable city with new sights around every corner. My wife, Tara, and I were lucky enough to travel here on our honeymoon and this past October were able to return 21 years later. Yes some things had changed but for the most part it was like seeing an old friend again.

What had changed for me wasn’t Florence but my knowledge of the city. In 2000, the internet was a blazing 56K dial-up and images were pixilated at best. So, any research on what to see and where to go was based on guidebooks an encyclopedias (what are those?). For this trip, I had taken 4K virtual walks, courtesy of YouTube, enjoyed an aerial and street view with Google maps and immersed myself into some Florence history by watching the Medici Netflix series. The world of information has definitely opened up and travelers can be more prepared when traveling abroad. Taking time to learn more about your destination will, indeed, enhance your experience.

Like our last trip, we were here on a whirlwind tour from our NCL cruise ship. In October, Europe was becoming a bit more open post-Covid but still the testing, paperwork and other requirements made a self arranged tour a bit more cumbersome, plus we had a credit with NCL for an Alaskan cruise that was canceled in 2020, so we were able to apply the credits for two Mediterranean cruises. A requirement of the Italian government for this cruise was that all cruise ship passengers MUST be on a ship arranged tour and not simply free-wheeling in the Italian landscape. This requirement was a blessing and a curse. We skipped the lines with ease to see as many sights as possible but we were relegated to using NCL excursions plus mandated to stay with our group and not wander off to see a cute leather shop, stop into a vinoteca or just sit a people watch. It was Andiamo….Let’s go!

Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore (The Duomo)

The hub that all things revolve around is The Duomo. The cathedral dominates the landscape and it seems most other items are viewed as a radius from the Duomo. The first time we were here, we had a tour of the inside of the cathedral; however, given I don’t have Hermione Granger’s time device, we opted for the Uffizi gallery, relegating the Duomo to our memories. Today’s digital cameras are a so nice! Given our previously limited photo collection of Florence I still experience pangs of anxiety not knowing if the photos I shot were actually, in focus, any good, or if the limitations of film speed killed any attempt a capturing the splendor both inside and out of the cathedral. Now inside or outside most photos are very good. Of course, no camera can fully capture the size and intricacy of the cathedral. It is worth take some time to soak up the 200+ years of workmanship.

Palazzo Vecchio

Began in 1299, the Palazzo Vecchio is Florence’s old town hall and was built as a defensible fortress with a crenulated battlement. Additionally, some of the arches under the crenellation can be opened which provided the ability of defenders to drop hot liquids or rocks on the attackers. Topped with a tower that is 94 meters high, originally called la vacca or the cow, the palazzo is yet another iconic image of Florence. It is also unique for its one-handed clock.

Dan Brown in his book, Inferno used the Palazzo as a backdrop as did several scenes in the movie Hannibal, where Dr. Lecter used the Palazzo balcony to make a dramatic statement. The real tyrants that used the Palazzo were Hitler and Mussolini who, in May 1938, used the balcony to view the crowd below.

Piazza della Signoria

This L-shaped square surrounds the Palazzo Vecchio and contains notable statues and fountain. The piazza is also the opening to the Uffizi gallery and the meeting place for many locals and tourists alike. Of course, the most famous statue is Michelangelo’s David, which in 1873 they moved to a museum, and the square is now adorned by a replica. Other notable statues for me are Equestrian Monument of Cosimo I, Hercules and Cacus, Perseus with the Head of Medusa, and The Rape of the Sabine Women. There are plenty more but you need a few leisurely days to really enjoy them not a whirlwind tour. It would be fun on a hot day (or maybe any day) it is good to grab a gelato, peruse the piazza and relax against the fountain of Neptune.

The Uffizi Gallery is a U-shaped art gallery that is between the Arno River and the Palazzo Vecchio. The art museum is a direct result of a donation to Florence by the last surviving Medici heiress, Anna Maria Luisa. It officially opened to the public in 1765 and contains an enormous amount of art. The Medici’s were massively rich and patrons of the arts, which allowed them to amass the collection. It would actually would take days to fully peruse. However, after 2+ hours of art history by our guide, my head was swimming trying to remember it all. While I took my own photos, no picture can do justice when compared to seeing the original. Our tour covered most of the “biggies”, Michelangelo, Botticelli, Leonardo Di Vinci, Titian, Caravaggio, and Raphael. Wow….must do if in Florence.

Time to head back

As always, time flew by too fast and soon it was time to head back toward the bus for our return trip to Livorno. However, we were given (probably contrary to mandate) 30-minutes of alone time. My wife went shopping for a few mementos for our daughters and I quickly zipped around for a few last shots of Florence.

I hope you have enjoyed sharing my 6 hours in Florence and that it might pique your interest to learn more or travel to Italy for a first-hand look. Please feel free to provide me feedback and any criticisms/errors.

Categories: Europe, International, ItalyTags: , , , , , , ,

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