When traveling to Europe from the US, most of the planes land early in the city. Usually, no meetings are scheduled on the travel day as I have flown all night with little sleep and no shower. This travel day (or as my wife calls it…vacation day) usually consists of 8-12 hours where I try to push through the day and go to sleep that night to reset my internal clock to the local time.
So, what would I recommend for a first day in London? The MUST things to do if you only have 8-12 hours of time? Here Goes!
Most international passengers will be arriving in Heathrow airport. Upon disembarking from the plane proceed to and through customs, where the flow of traffic will take you to baggage claim. Collect your bags and look for signs for the Heathrow express train. For business travel this is the quickest non-stop route to Paddington Station. If you arrive at London Gatewick airport you will need to do similarly, except you will take the express train to London’s Victoria Station.
From Paddington station (or Victoria) you can purchase a day pass for 12.5 pounds which will provide you with unlimited tube rides in zones 1-6 (also see blog post on subway travel). From the station make your way via the underground to your hotel, if staying in London. Or, if you are just in London for a few hours, drop you bags off at the Left Luggage kiosk. For a small fee they will secure your bags so you can zip around London un-tethered to your bags. Several subway stations in London have Left Luggage kiosks and you can find them easily via an internet search.
Once your bags are secured you are ready to begin you day in earnest. For first-time viewers of London travel from Paddington to Westminster station and come up to ground level (likely 9-10 am by now depending on flight arrival time). You should be right in front of Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament. Also spend time here grabbing the requisite photos and exploring the Westminster bridge spanning the Thames, looking at the London Eye (Ferris Wheel), Westminster Abby plus Parliament Square Garden with its many statues. One of particular note is Winston Churchill located on the corner near Westminster station.
London Eye
Then continue up Whitehall road towards Trafalgar square. On the left you will pass the gate to 10 Downing street and the horse guards. Again, enjoy the scenery, people and statues that adorn Whitehall. This walk even with taking at bit of time for stops and photos shouldn’t take 30 minutes to get to Trafalgar square.
Heavily protected 10 Downing Street 
Spend a bit of time in Trafalgar square looking up at Lord Nelson who beat the combined French and Spanish fleet at the bay of Trafalgar during the Napoleonic war and enjoying the famous Barbary Lions at the base of his column. Catch the fountains as you look up the steps towards the National Gallery. This Gallery contains a massive amount of famous paintings and has free access to all (donation suggested). More on this later.
Lord Nelson 
The National Gallery 
Barbary Lions protecting Lord Nelson’s pedestal
Looking left as you face the National Gallery you will see the Admiralty Arch with its three porticos. The two outmost are for daily London traffic while the center portico is reserved strictly for the Queen’s (royalty) passage. The Admiralty arch is the beginning of The Mall which leads to Buckingham Palace. While heading to Buckingham Palace feel free to enjoy the sights of St. James park on the left.
Admiralty Arch 
Looking down the Mall towards Buckingham Palace 
St. James Park 
Victoria Monument in front of Buckingham Palace
On arriving near Buckingham Palace take in the views from Victoria Memorial in front of the palace and make your way to the wrought iron barrier of the palace itself.
If you are dying to see the Changing of the Guards then you need to be at the palace at 10 am to get a good spot. The changing actually takes place at 11 but festivities start at 10:30 am daily. To me it is “nice” to see but not sure it is worth the 1hour time if you only have a day to see central London.
Enjoy the Palace and take your pictures and selfies before heading up through Green Park to Piccadilly road (near Green Station). By this time, it is likely 12 noon or 1 pm depending on your start time. I suggest looking around for a traditional pub for lunch. If you are hungry earlier there are lots of places to eat around Trafalgar square to fortify you for the walk down the Mall.
While at lunch or before, you need to decide how to spend your afternoon.
History:
- Churchill War Rooms I put this off until my 4-5th time in London but I now think I made a huge mistake. If you like history, esp WWII and Churchill, then this is the place for you. Get tickets ahead of time. Plan on spending a minimum of 2-3 hours to see it all and even this is a bit aggressive. Nearest tube stop is Westminster
- The Tower of London For me, this is THE thing to do if you have never been to London before. Lots to see including, Crown Jewels, Historic White Castle tour, site of Ann Bolin’s beheading, associated buildings, plus nearby Tower Bridge. This, again, needs a 2-3 hour window at minimum and likely can be more. Nearest tube stop is Tower Hill
- British Museum This houses the Rosetta stone, Egyptian artifacts including mummies, items from the Greek Acropolis and much much more. It is free but can have long lines. Need 2-3 hours minimum. Nearest tube stop Holborn
Art:
- National Gallery Again, this is free to get in (donation recommended) and has all sorts of art from Dutch masters, impressionists, Italian masters, English painters and more. It is a bit overwhelming as rooms and rooms of masterpieces. Easily spend 2 hours or more in the museum. Great too if rainy day or cold. Nearest tube stop is Charing Cross.
- Tate Modern If you are at the Tower of London or St. Paul’s the Tate Modern isn’t too far a walk away. It is a free museum and has many unique presentations. Closest tube station is Blackfriers across the bridge.
Shopping:
- Walking Piccadilly road towards Piccadilly Circus will provide you with lots of high end and souvenir shops. Likewise, branching from Piccadilly Circus is Oxford street with even more nice shops for your shopping delight.
- Harrods If you NEED to deposit some money at Harrods then you need to grab the nearest subway to Knightsbridge station and walk the 2-3 blocks to the shopping mecca that is Harrods.
Other:
- London Eye I feel this is an expensive 30-minute ride (minimum 27 pounds). Of course, it is a big tourist attraction but as an amateur photographer it is hard to get good pictures even though you are high as Plexiglas can be dirty and curves can sometimes distort the images. Nearest Tube stop is Waterloo
- St. Paul’s Cathedral I enjoyed the tour of the cathedral and if you climb up to the top two levels of the dome you get magnificent views of London for ½ the price of London Eye, but just not Parliament. Also, at St. Paul’s is the staircase used in Harry Potter movies. Give yourself 1-2 hours depending on the pace you set. Nearest tube station is St. Paul’s. Walk down to the Millennium Bridge while you are close. It too was used and blown up in Harry Potter movies.
My choice for first timers to London would be early afternoon at the Tower of London and then, depending on time available, spend the rest of the afternoon at the National Gallery seeing their top paintings.
Finally, I would head to Piccadilly Circus to catch an evening view of the lights, a selfie at Eros fountain and then look for a nice dinner in the SoHo area just near Piccadilly. By then you should be massively tired, feet worn out and ready to get a good night’s sleep. Next day it is back to the working grind but at least you put a big dent in the London sights!
The Sane Adventurer 
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